Friday, 1 May 2015

Shields and Flowers


                                     

                                                "Do we too long miss our tribal lineage,
                                                         Do we miss real totems?
                                                What is this fascination with the East,                                                                                             What do we really miss?
                                                    Why do flowers become shields?"
                                                             
                                              
                                                           




1 - Eastern Caucasus, Shield rugs, 19th


Plate 1 refers to a type of field design usually found in 19th century rugs of Eastern Caucasus and commonly called 'shield'. 


In the dedicated literature  it is at times called 'shield palmette' or 'shield like palmette'.



Nonetheless, at times, it can assume really unexpected shapes (plate 2).


2 - 'Shield' rug, Northern Caucasus, 19th 

Otherwise, in some cases it is also possible to identify  a more realistic version of such transformed palmette, where a more graphic design speaks for the aesthetic sensitivity of the local weavers, as in the Northern Caucasus (plate 4)

3 - Eastern Caucasus

4 - Northern Caucasus

The palmette is often depicted with outward petals, but in some cases as well with inward  (plate 5) so to properly account for this particular shield-like device.

5 - Northern Caucasus, palmette rug, 17th-18th

detail





Such floral motif has its early classical lineage in the distinctive palmette form which both in Safavid and Ottoman rugs is variously depicted.

6 -  Isfahan, medallion rug, 17th, second half.



 
7 - Cairene- Ottoman prayer rug, detail, 16th, third quarter



Of much interest is, moreover, the ability of this design to become a simplified form to be enriched with various elements. The simplified form, already conceived in classical weavings (plate 8), was to be widely exploited in later classic periods, specifically in Caucasian carpets (plate 9). In this group, actually, it is possible to find a great many of palmette shapes as in the Dragon, Transitional and Floral type.

8 - Tabriz, medallion carpet, 16th


9 - Caucasus, Transitional carpet, 17th-18th

Caucasian carpets in the 19th century underwent a specific development towards a simplification and stylisation of design which, already present in the last part of the previous century, yet now was much played on.
The vanishing Persian influence and the fading importance of the Caucasian Khanates due to the new Russian governance lacerated the continuity of the local decorative traditions. Moreover, the Caucasus, proud with its great and impressive culture definitely integrated to a biggest civilisation, became a provincial region far from the heart of an alien empire (Russia).

Nevertheless, its rich and varied decorative traditions were not to be lost, rather survived, though disguised in new forms.
In the Eastern weaving districts the classical patterns underwent selective disintegrations and single designs, mostly floral, were reconceived and reassembled in an as rich variety as before. Otherwise, in the Western regions there happens to see what Serare Yetkin properly calls a resurgence of Anatolian village models. No wonder since they had been long under the Turkish Ottoman influence. One can most properly says that a kind of archaism appears to imbue primarily the so called Kazak rugs, but as well many other village weaving districts, as it seems to have been the epoch inclination.
We will never be able to know whether the ancient pre-Islamic beliefs, though erased by hundreds years of transformations, were somehow imprinted in a kind of  'ethnic hard-disk'  to surface when it was easy.

This particular feeling for the design led to much stylised yet expressive shapes which can submit a symbolic content by means of an animal-like look, or  heraldic and totemic suggestion (plate 10, 11).

11 - Flaming  palmette , Kuba rug, 19th
Such a strong suggestive power really permeates many of these creations, contributing, along with stunningly bright colours and impressive compositions, to the great fascination of  the 19th century Caucasian carpets.


10 - So called flaming palmette, Kuba rug, 18th 



One more design has been called shield for sake of practical utility. It is the case of a whole group of Eastern Caucasian carpets authoritatively investigated by M. Franses and R. Pinner.

12 - Shield rug, Eastern Caucasus, 18th-19th

The floral source of this shield does not need more details than the two authors produce. I would only add two notes.
First, the cypress form recognised in the two elements flanking the shield seems to properly represent two curved leaves, much in touch with a palmette theme, as devised in a related carpet from the same provenance (plate 13).

13 - Shirvan palmette rug, early 18th

Second, the shield shape better recalls a specific floral form often depicted in a group of Caucasian rugs (plate 14), and characterising a small group of Eastern Caucasus rugs (plate 15). This is at times called lily, at times open top lotus, the latter likely much adhering to the truth ( see here 'The Lotus Flower - A Special Caucasian Cultivar' by the author).

14 - Eastern Caucasus rug, late 18th



15 - Eastern Caucasus, open top lotus rug, 17th-18th

We find as well this type of classical derived designs in the so called tribal populations of the Caucasus, one of them being the Shahsavan of mainly Turkic lineage. Some of their weavings really display a strong design alteration.
For sake of taxonomy the different ethnic groups are commonly thought to have their own aesthetic sense, despite the unquestionable influences received during time and despite what seems to be a shared pool of motifs. Although this claim can be highly questionable, sometimes it appears reasonable. Thus, an apparently strong deformation can plausibly account for both a strong aesthetic sense as well deeply rooted traditions which can at times surface in the design.
Anyhow, the two rug so far attributed to the Shahsavan and here depicted  show with certainty another version of the two floral forms previously discussed, the palmette (plate 16) and the open top lotus (plate 17).


16 - Southern Caucasus, Shasavan confederacy, shield  rug, 19th
17 - Southern Caucasus, Shahsavan confederacy, open lotus rug, 1860 ca.



Plate 16 - The palmette, albeit recognisable by its primary shape (from the bottom a kind of triangular base on which the main bulb rises developing in a central cusp flanked by two  outward petals), is moreover associated with other floral designs. In fact, while a standing flower is inscribed in its centre, the field is framed by a highly geometrized meandering stem with leaves and flower.

Plate 17 - The open lotus in this case has been thought to refer to a cosmological concept, the world seen as an egg by means of its ancient symbolic meaning hailing from the Zendavesta texts. In turn, the decorative details, featured by arrow, ashik, diamond, eight pointed star, amulets, animals, rosette and boteh, speak for the wide design pool the weaver could draw from. 





Other Caucasian rugs use to be mentioned as shield carpets, but since their design is completely different from this group, they will be investigated in an other thread.



                                                              --------------------------------


Bibliographic references
Ellis, C., G., Early Caucasian Rugs, 1975.
Franses, M. and Pinner, R., Caucasian Shield carpets, Hali inaugural issue, 1978 (http://issuu.com/halipublicationslimited/docs/caucasian_shield_carpets__web.artic)
See there a comprehensive bibliography.
Herrmann, E, in Orient Stars, published by Kircheim, E. H., pp. 343 ff, 1993.
Muse, G., ibidem, pp. 307 ff.
Pinner, R., in Turkoman Studies, pp. 204 ff. 1980.
Sovereign Carpets, ICOC 1999, Milano.
Tanavoli, P., Shahsavan Pile carpets, Hali N. 45, 1989.
Yetkin, S., Early Caucasian carpets in Turkey, Vol. 1,2, 1978.




















Monday, 30 March 2015

The Hecksher & Co.


Chapter I - The Hecksher






1- The Hecksher palmette rug, 18th-19th

The Hecksher 'palmette rug', believed by the common wisdom to be an 18th century weaving attributed to the vast Khorasan region adjacent to the preset day Turkmenistan (West Turkestan), remains a mistery.
While not assuming the mystery can be resolved, some  findings on the subject can delineate influence from the  Azerbaijan/Caucasian weaving style as well an unexpected distinctive Turkmen accent. Finally, the comparisons do help disclosing its strong unique character.

The format - The format is consistent with Turkmen main carpets and Caucasian palmette rugs.


3 -The Burns palmette rug, Caucasus, 18th
2 - Salor main carpet, 18th





5 - The Wher Yomut main carpet, 18th-19th
The border - The main trefoil border is usual in both period Azerbaijan and Khorasan pieces; the  'S' guard is again seen in Azerbaijan and Yomut carpets.



4 - The Keir palmette rug, Caucasus, 18th


The field - The variety of the designs is apparent in the Caucasian rugs of the Khanates period ( 1735 - 1805), where a plethora of Persianate floral motifs were going to settle in the Transitional, Floral and Sunburst type.
Three main motifs along with some minor garnish the red field.

The first motif - The so called lotus open palmette neatly displays its origin, being referred to a specific Caucasian group decorated with this allover design (plate 8). Yet, the fan shaped calyx echoes some Turkmen floral types. The style displayed in the flower (plate 6) immediately stresses a tough rendition of the model.

 6 -Hecksher lotus open palmette
7 - Caucasian lotus open palmette, detail

8 - Caucasian lotus open  palmette rug, 18th


The second motif - Its high stylisation does not completely disguise a double palmette compound originated from the Safavid decorative pool (plate 9). Symmetrical palmettes are, in fact, often depicted in the Azerbaijan rugs (plate 10), in some of which a close inspection uncovers the source of the characteristic Hecksher motif (plate 11, fig. A). Curiously enough, the same rugs show the lotus open palmette (plate 11, fig. B), as well sourced from the Safavid floral vocabulary (plate 12). The double palmette will continue to be featured in some 19th century Turkmen and Kurdish rugs of Northeastern Persia.

9 - Karabak,  Isfahan inspired palmette rug, late 18th
8 - Hecksher double palmette
10 - The Keshishian sickle leaf rug, vase technique, Karabak, 17th-18th
12 - Kirman, vase carpet, 17th, lotus open palmette

11 - Palmette rug, Shirvan Khanate, late 18th







13 - Eagle Group torba, aksu gul, 19th
The third motif - Despite seemingly similar to the aksu gul found in a type of the Eagle Group torba, it will be better discussed in the next chapter.


12 - Hecksher


Minor guls - Not well tipified, they loosely adhere to a generic Turkmen tradition. Two of them seem to take from the main and minor Salor guls, though losing the scale. The one and only stepped diamond inscribed with a cross design is seen in the inner decoration of theYomut carpet's guls discussed in the next chapter.
(Useful here to remind that Yomut, Salor and other Turkmen tribes were inhabiting the area from the Khorasan to the Amu Darya river in the 18th century).




Hecksher minor gul 1
Hecksher minor gul 2



Salor main carpet, detail, 18th

Stepped diamond
                        





Chapter II - The Ballard



14 - The Ballard Yomut main carpet, 18th


A carpet 'out of the box', the Hecksher is related to another famous atypical Yomut main carpet, the Ballard.
Unlike the previous, this rug bears the Yomut stigmas in the technical features and  in two designs, the c-gul and the meandering palmette border. Cut and sewn longitudinally through the middle, it veils only part of the central axis motifs.
Despite the Yomut membership, again much of Persianate/Caucasian influence can be detected in the pattern. Very far from the calm and neat order typical of the early Turkmen main carpets, it displays a kind of dramatic prosody by means of big scale devices  and sudden spots of light. Big designs closely assembled with no pause in between are again typical  of some Khanates rugs.

The Ballard shares with the Hecksher two designs of Caucasian inspiration, both unfortunately  cut and sewn - the double palmette and the lotus open palmette. The latter, though missing the central calyx, is apparent by the open petals almost sewn together (plate 15, fig A).


15 - The Ballard rug, detail


With the exception of the c-gul, two more main devices are featured in the field.

The first - It is represented by two mirrored palmettes of Persianate inspiration inscribed in a serrated black halo adhering to the petals profile.

16 - The Ballard mirroring palmettes

The second - It is an original complex gul  whose source is uncertain, yet it seems logical to look for it in the Caucasian decorative pool from where other elements of these two rugs have been derived. In this case one type of octagonal compound can be considered for its characteristic decorative protrusions (plate 18).  The early exemplars, as the Ballard and the Wher are, use the protrusions as decorative elements, while they usually become structural part of the device, as a simplified version in the Wher rug indicates (plate 20).


17 - The Ballard complex gul


18 - Early Karabak floral carpet, mid 18th

19 - The Wher Yomut main carpet, complex gul





20 - The Wher Yomut main carpet, simplified gul

At this point we once more introduce the Hecksher third motif for it seems a blend of the aksu and the Wher simplified gul. Again a tough design. 




Since research is a working progress, I add today (april, 4, 2015) an interesting Yomut torba, esteemed ca. 1800, whose guls rather curiously recall again the Hecksher motif, both for shape and design style. A developed form can be seen in the minor gul, the so called 'Erre' gul, of many yomut torba of the 19th century.

Yomut torba, ca. 1800

Yomut chuval, erre gul, 1860 ca.


The Ballard two minor guls - Hard to decipher because of the damage to the carpet, one of them seems to match the Wher minor gul (plate 20), the other seemingly being a simple device. 







21 - The Ballard minor gul



                                                                        


Chapter III - The Wher




22 - The Wher Yomut main carpet, 18th-19th


So far the Wher Yomut main carpet appears to be a valuable reference for our arguments, and a closer inspection can unveil some more information.
From a distance two  guls of the so called Kepse type prove to have a progressive size like matching a palmette form much similar to the Ballard type. Furthermore, the red symmetrical protrusions seem to repeat the Ballard petals inside the black halo. In this perspective the latter likely anticipates the castellated profile of the Kepse gul. Generously, the Wher exemplar gives us as the hint for the sourcing model as the istance of its symmetrical adjustment  (plate 25). Corroborating this hypothesis, one Yomut exemplar shows two conjoint kepse guls much recalling the arrangement of two conjoint palmettes in line with the Persianate tradition (plate 26).



23 - Wher mirroring kepse gul

24 - Ballard mirroring palmettes

25 - Wher symmetrical kepse gul

Rugkazbah image
26 - Yomut multigul rug

detail, conjoint kepse gul




The floral origin of the Kepse and other two guls is consistent with the apparent floral decoration of the elem. Probably the main part of the carpet, the field, required a special aesthetic able to convey a proper symbology, while the elem accepted a more realistic rendition. The  Wher curled leaf border, as well as the meandering palmette seen in the Ballard and other Yomut main carpets, would confirm a coherent floral inspiration for this type of weavings, not irrelevant also in other Turkmen types.


28 - Wher floral elem

29 - Tekke engsi floral elem

                                                                 


Although these pedestrian comparisons do not achieve anything conclusive on the Hecksher subject, they stress, if ever needed,  the influential presence of Caucasian/Persianate models in some western Turkmen weavings by means of the cosmopolitan trade centres of the Amu Darya region. In particular, the Azerbaijan Khanates significantly traded with it via the Northern Persian region of Gorgan in the second half of the 18th century. The Gorgan and Atrak regions were inhabited since the 17th century also by the Turkic Goklan tribes, which were too responsible for weavings at times put close to the Salors, at times to the Yomuts. They seemingly wove a group of rugs with the allover double palmette design in the 19th century. That's why the Hecksher has been attributed also to the Goklans.


The Persian influence is reportedly surmised by the account of the Polish Jesuit Father Krusinski who lived in Persia from 1704 to 1729: He mentioned Astarabad, in today Gorgan, a site of a Shah Abbas laboratory. Carpets and other fabrics were to be made in its own manner with a strong Persian urban influence as in the other royal laboratories established in Karabak, Shirvan and Gilan. (See Pinner and Eiland, The Wiedersperger Collection, De Young Museum, 1999). Yet, each example got a unique accent..
Who were the weavers in these laboratories, were 'tribal' individuals employed to work on commission?

However, the same comparisons seem underlining different sources for the Ballard and the Hecksher exemplars. The dramatic lexicon and rhythm of the Ballard, does appear more related to the Caucasian Transitional rugs, while the Hecksher appears to take more from the Floral group with ordered field arrangements.

The tough rendition  and variety of the sourcing models did not prevent the skillful weaver from creating a cohesive design imbued with a strong identity. Not an ordinary collection of random motifs, it has a logical disposition arranged by alternate vertical rows. They are provided with an ascending direction by means of their changing scale and colour; balanced colours and spots of white are apparent in the first half of the field and decrease in the upper section.
The strong styles featured in this rug, bold and graphic, continue to defy and pique the curiosity of all those who love these weavings.



                                                               -------------------------------

                                                   


Bibliographic references
An Enigmatic Main Carpet: the ex-Ballard MC, http://rugkazbah.com/boards/records.php?id=2358&refnum=2358
Carpets from Turkmenistan- Goklan,  in http://weavingartmuseum.org/carpets/plate7.html.
Carpets from Turkmenistan - Yomut, in http://weavingartmuseum.org/carpets/plate2.html.
Eagle Group Primer, Rugtracker, http://www.rugtracker.com/2013/03/eagle-group-primer.html
Enciclopaedia Iranica, Central Asia: Economy from the Timurids until the 18th century, http://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/central-asia-xi.
Jourdan, U., Oriental Rugs: Volume 5 - Turkoman, 1996
Mackie, L., and Thompson,J., Turkmen. Tribal Carpets and Traditions,  1980.
Moshkova, V.G., Carpets of the Peoples of Central Asia (1970), in Oriental Rug Review, Vol. III, No. 1 through Vol. IV, No. 9.
Murray, E., Origin of the Turkoman Guls, Oriental Rug Review, 1982.
O'Bannon, G., et al.,Vanishing Jewels: Central Asian Tribal Weavings, 1990.
Pinner, R., and Eiland, M.,Between the Black Desert and the Red. Turkmen Carpets from The Wiedersperg Collection, 1999.
Poullada, P., Kizilbash from Khorasan?, Hali 156.
Reuben, D., Guls and Gols II, Exhibition of of Turkmen and related Carpets from the 17th to the 19th Century,2001.
Sienknecht, H., A Turkic Heritage, The Development of Ornament on Yomut C-Gl Carpets, Hali 47.
Thomson, J., Turkman, 1980.
Wright, R., Carpets in Azerbaijan, http://www.richardewright.com/0409_CarpetsInAzerbaijan.html;
Wrigh, R., Turkmen Carpets and Central Asian Art, http://www.richardewright.com/0612TurkmenCarpets_CentralAsianArt/index.htmlArt.
Yetkin, S., Early Caucasian Carpets in Turkey, Vol. I,II, 1978.
Yomut, Tribe without a Gul, Rugtracker, http://www.rugtracker.com/2014/09/yomutgol-without-tribe.html.