Friday, 14 October 2016

The Border and The Carpet - A Twin Birth

The Niniveh Star Map, 5500 BC (?)

Looking at ancient times and other forms of art than the woven  the 'border' appears as a defining line that embodies a strong symbolical meaning to the space within.
Spirituality probably was one very ancient field where human mind practiced and improved its creative power. Trying to explain the mysteries of Universe led to create 'maps' of the cosmos which man could grasp from the observation of sky and earth.

Celestial bodies and earthly appearances had to be defined and shaped so as to give them a comprehensible function; so as to diminish and partly control uncontrolled fears. Such subtlest process, among others, somehow represents the dawn of human thought so intensely occupied with understanding the lifeworld.
The same need of rationalising applied also to human first activities. Day-life utensils, buildings and roads aroused from practical needs, but were perfectioned by a 'design project', as we'd say nowadays. Many an 'abstract' form derived from a keen observation of reality. Clearly enough, it emerges how important was a 'plan' made by a line giving form to an idea: the line  defines and gives meaning (a shared meaning) to the idea. Form and content are bond forever in a reciprocal function.

Hollow based projectile point from the Al Fayum A Neolithic

As to the issue at case here, that is the border in a carpet, some appropriate examples come to mind; they belong to the field of sacred space and building, a momentous output of human conquest ever. Let's see how this can apply to our topic.
The neo-Sumerian word 'temen' signifies the design of the zigurrat's foundations, a design defining specific spaces and symbolical functions likewise. Similarly, the word 'nemeton' in Celtic tradition and 'temenos' in many Mediterranean ones  refers to a reserved sacred ground outlined by a 'precinct'.

Ziggurat Choga Zanbil, Elamite period, Iran. A temenos wall separates the temple from the urban settlement

Not otherwise, the Persian Achemenid pairi-deiza (i.e. paradise-garden), derived from the ancient scripts of the Avesta as image of royal power and control over the world, indeed is a walled space. Order, richness, water, fruits, beasts and shadow were real symbols of the monarch's status, without which the world would dwell into caos and death. Most interestingly, then, the wall signifies a separation from all such terrifying realities and in turn reveals a conceit of definition.
More than one religion will inherit this archetype, namely the Hebrew with its 'Pardes', the Christian with its 'Paradisum' and the Islamic with its 'Janna' (from the Hebrew word Eden). All these represent the after-death realm like a garden enclosure.

The Enclosed Garden and the Sealed Fountain, XVth-XVIth

It is quite arguable a symbolic meaning to be implied when 'planning' a carpet, be it just protecting from the uncomfortable soil. The protective function would easily implicate the intervention of divine favour. On the other hand, there are carpets specifically conceived for a royal or religious purpose.
In this perspective it is logical to hypothesize border and field to be definitively conceived together, fitting each other as to designs and symbols as well.
For the border may indeed have had the role of 'precinct' wherein a sort of mystery-play is happening, it could have varied meanings. These have not yet received a wide attention, but they can enjoy interesting interpretations on the basis of the field design. In so doing they may complete the whole representation.

A survey of designs woven into carpets testifies them to primarily represent beliefs, religious and ethnic identity, cosmologic images and significant symbols often derived from the observation of earthly flora and fauna, and celestial events. They were basically transformed into a rich dictionary where abstract design and geometry appear aside more naturalistic forms. This issue will present only a limited choice of examples just to give a prospect of the subject. 

Observing the first complete surviving carpet, the so called 'Pazyryk' from the royal burial site on the Altai mountains, possibly woven on an Achaemenid template in the 300 BC circa, it is possible to read one such royal iconography related to an important nomad warrior. Quite interestingly, the outer border depicts repeat squares inscribed with an animal. The added wings to the quadruped indicates a celestial animal, one of numerous populating ancient mythologies. While it is difficult to safely state the meaning of the whole carpet, a representation of kingship is arguable to which the border adds a divine status, protection and favour.

The Pazyryk carpet, Schytian artifact, 300 BC circa, Hermitage

The Pazyryk carpet, detail of the border design

A big gap exists between this first heroic survivor and the first group of rugs which mark a fix point in carpet history. In fact, to look at other well preserved carpets we have to jump to medieval carpets, the so called 'Seljiuk', woven during the first period of Turkic dominion over Iran and Anatolia (11th-14th century).
'Seljuk' carpet, XIIIth
The border had never better expressed its manifest symbolic nature as in this group. Some of them sport the most conceptual design possible: calligraphy (in the case above a bold kufesque type). One design par excellence to carpets. It found great diffusion in Anatolian carpets, 15th-16th century, and in the Persianate world, late 13th-15th century, as seen in illustrated books.
Anatolian carpet, Lotto type, 16th, kufesque border

The wide spread of a new pugnacious religion, Islam, in the Oriental Latitudes was one marking sign in a variety of artifacts. Calligraphy was just developing in the 8th-9th century Islamic courts as the most revered form of art for it 'translated' the divine verb. 
Also in carpets the Koranic word was knotted as a wall around the field so as to justify the artifact's religious piety. It practically became a new 'design' springing into many a variation. Never again such strict and clean meaning was used into borders. 

Usually, the pattern shows a scrolling arrangement of motifs relating to the field.
Some of them can be found also in different visual medium, for designs usually circulated and were appropriated from a medium and then adapted to another.
More usually than not, a pattern is composed by a few elements, or even just one, composed in a design suited to be unfolded through. Various flowers, leaves and vines, trees and birds, geometrical forms (diamond, octagon, eight pointed star) and numerous stylised designs (arabesque amidst them), all of them mostly relate to the ultra mundane reality, i. e. a celestial landscape or cosmological symbols. Animals as well participate in the completion of the allegorical message whether part of a lifeworld, sign of kingship or celestial beings.
The example below shows how an arabesque field may be framed by a landscape design. Both really hint at the same celestial imagery: the garden of paradise populated with any kind of vegetal lushness. Only, the field offers a stylised version by means of the infinite interlacements of arabesques and flowers. In turn, the border presents a more realistic image with trees and blooming shrubs. But we can find also just one design for both border and field, although rarer, like in the second example.

'Vase' carpet, Kirman 17th, Moshe Tabibnia

'Vase' carpet, Kirman, 18th, the Rotschild Collection
Creativity was very busy at times and it is interesting to try to understand how it may have processed images.
Safavid carpet, border fragment, 16th-17th
The fragment above is a good test. It seemingly represents a well known rhetorical figure called 'pars pro toto' where a significant detail hints at the whole of the requested image. In this case the detail may represent an animal head generated from and generating vines.
The animal head, apparently a lion, is often named 'mask' or 'grotesque' yet it evokes the famous narrative of the Talking Tree. Therein human faces, demons and animal heads hang from branches and talk predicting the future.
The Talking Tree was typically elaborated also in stylised versions where interlacing blossoming vines (arabesques) cover a surface while intertwining with others figures. Border arrangements of this design are well known in Mughal India and Safavid Iran despite the rare survivors.
Mughal India, Talking Tree motif, field, late 16th, Qatar Museum
Safavid Iran, Talking Tree motif, border, 16th/17th The Burrell Collection
The Talking Tree easily reminds another as important image, that of the Tree of Life, one more archetype representing the perennial source of life. The added quality of predicting the future clearly hints at the supreme divine knowledge enshrouded therein. The Cosmic Tree speaks therefore of an overarching theme somehow offering a summa of Eastern spirituality.

As to floral arrangements, the meaning can be easily suggested by many a good example. One evident is the typical Rosette and Palmette border as seen in Cairene-Ottoman niche rugs.
Cairene-Ottoma prayer rug, III° quarter of the 16th, The Khalili Collection

The above awesome combination of sorts of flowers and leaves definitely alludes to Janna, the garden of Eden described in Islamic sacred scripts. The design suggests the well know narrative of a garden filled with any delights: the earthly, distilled from human fails, and the heavenly. Really the entire depiction of Eden is abstracted by just flowers. Likewise, the interior walls of period mosques were allover bedecked with floral tiles as if echoed the desired paradise. This  carpet is devoted to the mystic elation of human soul through prayer and contemplation; the designs in field and border offer to the believer the one and only sacred 'precinct' wherein nothing more distracts his pious efforts.

However, it is necessary to remind many carpet designs to be sourced from other visual medium and to have probably underwent several adaptations before arriving to the weaver. She would in turn adapt them via specific technical and visual requirements.
That is to say the original source not to be immediately traceable to modern eye. 
The period viewer probably was aware of current symbols, imagery, narratives and messages conveyed by the artifact. As well, viewer and commissioner were used to a multiple allegorical meaning to the representations. Some can be read as if real riddles flattering one's deciphering ability. Such taste and quest for ingenuity was most sought after in Islamic Persianate courts, more greatly so in the Safavid, following the Timurid fondness of 'Rarity'.

Persian miniature,Humay meets Humayun, Herat 1405-20
Usually, in 15th and 16th century Persian painting, which was leading model for anyone in the Islamic world involved in artistic output, near each and every detail is part of a definite message hinting at multiple allegorical messages.
It would be quite hyperbolic to read carpets with the same lens, yet it must be reminded them to participate in the same cultural milieu.

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Even in the case of carpets woven in distant centres from courtly and finely educated contexts a meaningful relation between the two is apparent.
The main theme of the following Anatolian carpet, the eight pointed star, is repeated in the main border. One such geometric symbol was part of pre-Islamic beliefs here, in fact, superseding the urban pattern of central medallion and four corners.


Aksaray carpet, 17th, Rippon Boswell 2010
The same border is back here, even though the main theme is only superficially different.

Aksaray carpet, second half 17th, Rippon Boswell 2009

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Such connection border-field is apparent in far afield weaving areas too where Islam was not the main religion. A flat weave rug, possibly woven 13th/14th century in eastern regions during the Mongolian Yuan dynasty ruling China, speaks for it.
The correlation is again striking. A paradisiacal landscape, possibly the Buddhist Pure Lands, populated with lotus and birds, is framed by a repeat lotus bud and flanking leaves. The lotus itself in the Buddhist tradition was a sign of purity and perennial life. The scrolling units can be read also as a patterned image of the famous eastern design called Cloud-Collar. The four protruding forms around a circle were originally designed as if trefoils and later lotus buds with leaves. The device conveys the idea of the sacred gate in the sky connecting earth and heaven. Widely distributed in China and Central Asia, it also represents the four directions of the Universe and an emanating source of life. The ancient concept of a gate to heaven, situated in the centre of the sky-dome, at the upper end of the world-axis, is encountered in many Oriental philosophies and beliefs and was given diverse renditions.
This representation, as well as others related to heavenly spheres and invisible concepts, came to receive humanised terrestrial and reduced depictions.

'Floral' carpet, flat weave, Mongolian period, 14th

Cloud collar motif used for a garment, Central Asia 14th-15th

Only one more design, amidst others, will be presented here for its still archaic nature - the key pattern and/or meander.

Chinese royal carpet, XVIth, II half, Palace Museum, Peking
Not really part of the huge corpus of motifs belonging to Oriental rugs as it is restricted to Chinese, it may be, however, a quintessential evidence of the remarkable bond between field and border. Also, it may further enlighten the original idea of it as a sacred precinct.
The key pattern appeared in Chinese art during the the Neolithic period in Machang earth ware vases (2300 - 2000). Yet similar designs may be found at diverse Latitudes in diverse civilisations, one for all the Greek. They are supposed to indicate a steady flowing and motion, not far from the heart-beat; a perennial vital pulse as seen in the sea waves, in the spiralling movements of the celestial bodies, in the continuous seasons' revolving. Under these lens, it is one most conceptual yet realistic design ever achieved, at the opposite pole of the calligraphy derived kufesque, solely conceptual. It received many renditions the youngest the most elaborated. At times it includes a swastika in each and every unit as if it enhances the meaning.

Machang earth ware vase, neolithic era 2300 2000 BC


In the carpet above it is used to frame the image of the supreme eartlhy divinity, namely the dragon/emperor.
Interestingly enough, it is also contained by one more complementing design, the vegetal meander. The latter seems to belong to the naturalistic depiction of the Pure Lands, where nature serves anew a humanised rendition of inconceivable realms. Vegetal forms often befriend 'abstract' ones declaring established metaphors.
In Buddhism the lotus with its spiralling stems and stylised leaves is the epitome of Buddha and nirvana, the highest level of enlightenment lying beyond the Pure Lands. It is not strange, in fact, to see a vegetal meander gracing the sacred mandorla hosting Buddha, amidst other meaningful designs.

 Bezeklik Buddhist Caves, Turpan, 11th, leafed meander

Chinese royal carpet, Lotus design, XVIth, II half, Moshe Tabibnia

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A warning should be added here, although at the end of this short issue. It is quite debatable whether the original meaning of such designs was still understood in distant periods of use, such as those of later carpets, or it was lost in a standardised decorative usage. However, their survival and the efforts to decode them may give back echoes of times otherwise lost. This very fact is one precious message weaving art consigns to us. After all, art does live through the increasing meaning mankind adds to it in the passing time.









Thursday, 21 April 2016

Central Asian Latitudes and Turkmen Carpets



A unique characteristic of Turkmen main carpets was the driving motivation of this survey - the astounding continuity of format and the impressive royal-like aspect of some. A compelling question has been tickling the mind ever since: do they reflect an early 'courtly' outcome?
Along the way, a clue between them and a wider artistic scenario emerged. In fact, although apparently bonded to the historical and geographical latitudes which they sourced from, some features seem to imply a link with the larger Turk-Islamic rug family spread westwards within the Mediterranean shores. Under this light, their unparalleled appearance even more displays their true charisma to which distinctive iconographic choices appear to have contributed.
We tried to seek their blueprints going as far back as possible. Yet, we did fix a limit - the discovery of a lost Golden Age associable with their actual aspect.
Although lingering on the millennial visual traditions preceding the arrival of Turk-stock tribes in Central Asia was not the target of this work, they were undoubtedly merged in such a multiform environment. Acting as a mid-region between the far-distant Eurasian poles, Central Asia was, in fact, long used to cultural syncretism favouring the resilience of many diverse roots. It should not wonder that ancient imageries could survive the ravage of Time surfacing in later periods and civilisations. The Turkmen visual language plausibly seems to be the result of a centuries-long process, a millennium at least, during which the original Turk heritage melted in a complex scenario.

 



                                                   TURKMEN MAIN CARPETS                                                           




Turkmen (Saryk) main carpet, 19th


Turkmen main carpets are a classic of Oriental rugs, yet, definitely a unicum. No other provenance in the 'rug belt', in fact, exhibits with such a continuity only one layout - alternating major and minor devices (so-called guls). No different design has been ever recorded since the earliest pieces, allegedly dated to the 15th-17th century by scientific tests. Consequently, the question arises about its possible origin as well as cultural significance. Since the earliest carpets constitute a continuum with later pieces, the hypothesis of an older tradition must be claimed.
Does the classical equilibrium breathing in the best exemplars embody the spirit of a Golden Age?
Did a Golden Age ever exist and when did it sparkle? These questions may be of importance to a fresh appreciation of these weavings and are the compass in the following journey.

As odd as the term Golden Age may seem for a 'tribal-nomadic' outcome, we do apply it for its common usage in the rug domain. It usually refers to a historical period wherein a given culture enjoyed a political and artistic flourishing never repeated anew; a Classic Era responsible for an original notion of self-identity which expressed a distinctive artistic lexicon.
In the reconnaissance of a Turkmen one, the surviving carpets are the sole custodians of their secrets. Their designs, the guls, have received long scholarly attention conveyed by important literature. Yet, much is still to be deciphered, as Elena Tzareva pointed out coining for them an unparalleled term, 'Time Capsules'.
Indeed, the information they encapsulated might be unexpected. Recognizing iconographic choices may shed light also on the artistic milieu the Turkmen populations dealt with, submitting a further question: to which degree did they dialogue with the culture of the day maintaining their tradition?
But, what was the situation of the knotting art in the area first housing the Turk tribes arriving from inner Mongolia, their supposed cradle?



                                     EARLY KNOTTED RUGS IN CENTRAL ASIA



'Carpets and rugs are mentioned in 3rd to 4th-century documents as given in payment or part-payment for a wide variety of wares, from women to camels. Finds of wooden weft beaters linked to pile making or tapestry weaving undoubtedly show that these types of textiles were produced in eastern Turkestan, today Singkiang. An analysis of some documents gives every reason to believe that carpets and rugs not only played an important part in the regional economy but that they were also produced locally and on a regular, organised basis. Making textiles was an important and culturally significant activity that may have been regularly practised in homes and, as some evidence suggests, possibly even in monastic establishments. The use of textiles as an efficient medium of exchange presupposes a fair degree of standardisation. Textiles and tools are representatives of a broad and diverse ancient material culture generating economic, social and cultural capital'. (V&A)

Documentary evidence confirms that in large areas of today-Singkiang, i.e. the Loulan kingdom, rugs were more favoured than silk bolts as standardised media of exchange at least since the first century AD. Their cultural and symbolic value is also attested by their presence in burial settings. Although it is hard to establish a range of possible patterns, a variety is firmly attested by the excavated fragments. Most plausibly, many traditions contributed, namely the nomadic Turco-Mongol and non-Han Chinese, the settled populations of diverse ethnicities and, obviously, the splendid concurrence of numerous Eurasian imageries crossing the Silk Roads.


Knotted woollen fragment,  Loulan found, 150BC-60AD, V&A


Weft beater, Loulan found 200AD



Unfortunately, the least material evidence exists about ancient weaving and knotting tradition in the Oxus, Aral, and Caspian areas, although historical sources profusely mention it. Thus, it is relevant to remember what a cradle of human culture they had been.

Eneolithic to Bronze Age roughly sums up the ancient migrations West to East and vice-versa when the Near East and Indus Valley civilisations got to know each other via lively exchanges. BMAC (Bactriana Margiana Archeological complex), or Oxus culture, was the soil on which later Hellenistic Parthia, Sogdiana, and Bactriana blossomed. Sasanians and Chinese seeded the same soil in the first centuries of the Common Era. A splendid array of most ancient traditions, spiritual beliefs, and cosmological mindsets were lately to be subsumed by Islam at the end of the first millennium AD. Yet, the uniqueness of this ever-fertile soil veined with flexibility and inclusiveness favoured the steady symbiosis between nomadic and settled populations essential to one another. The potential risks of migrations have been transformed into an ever-enriching factor resulting also in a kaleidoscopic imagery.


The first known reign of the Turk tribes coming from inner Mongolia was established in two broad areas (eastern and western Central Asia) and they are supposed to have accepted to some extent the local traditions to best relate to local populations and enjoy the best economic opportunities of the Silk Roads.
Regarding the Oghuz tribes responsible for a large corpus of textiles woven in Central Asia, nothing certain is known about their Turkic ancestry. Yet, since they are scholarly accepted to belong to the same ethnic stock, we will shortly delve into the early history of the latter.






                                                      THE TURK ERA IN EURASIA
                                                       
                                                                     The Oghuz 


Northern Caucasus, early Middle Ages structures


A historical overview of early Turk tribes conveys a diagram of their influential presence in the Eurasian zone and pinpoints an acme, duration and decrease wherein resilience was a seamless habit.


 Eurasia, 500 AD


The Gok Turks, one of the nomadic people living in inner Mongolia, did impressively arise in the history of Eurasia in the mid-VIth century when thanks to an array of alliances defeated the Juan Juan (a large and influential confederation of nomads), Khitans and Kyrgyz. They could overcome the Chinese Zhou and Qi dynasties as well, forcing them to pay tributes.
Soon facing the West, they conquered the Heftalite kingdom with the help of the Sasanian empire, and entered Transoxiana, Sogdian, and Qwarezmian cities; Bukhara and Samarkand became de facto their possession. Fighting then for the control of the Silk Roads, they could bypass the Sassanian and Byzantine closed frontiers conquering the southern road to India and the northern to the Aral steppes and eastern Europe. These campaigns broadened the Turk presence as conquerors, skilful artisans (blacksmiths in particular), and warriors.
In 572, a great Turk empire was established over Eurasia able to join its extreme lands with remarkable consequences. Quite soon it split into two parts (582) of which the western Khaganate lasted till 743. This period is considered the Turk Era of Eurasia and, for a powerful empire was established, it is referred to as a Golden Age.


 Eurasia, 572 AD

Although the Turkification of the whole area began during the Hun-Heftalite migrations, it definitely deepened in this period despite a short formal suzerainty of the Tang dynasty, in the mid-7th century. The nomadic overlords mingled with the local traditions to the point of embracing Sogdian and Qwarezmian as official languages. New communities arose from the common interests of nomadic and settled ethnicities (Tocharian, Iranian, and northern nomadic stocks). But in the 8th century, their dominion was to falter because of complex historical events linked to the Islamic advent in Central Asia. After a wide Turkification, Central Asia underwent an as wide Islamisation to the extent that powerful Turk-Islamic dynasties emerged at the end of the millennium.

While there is historical evidence for surmising this early medieval period to represent a legendary Turk Golden Age, a unique Turk record speaks for it - the Orkhon funerary monument, mid-8th century (Orkhon Valley, Mongolia). The funerary inscriptions celebrate the Gok Khaganate's great accomplishments in economic development and international polities bearing the memory that numerous representatives from all over the world attended the impressive funeral ceremonies. Furthermore, period Chinese chronicles praise the magnificence of the period Turk court.

Kul Tigin, brother of Bilge Kaghan, Gok Turk d. 731

Bilge Kaghan tiara, d. 734, Khosho Tsaidam Memorial Site.



By common scholarship, this relatively short period was of paramount significance for the Turks to reshape their own cultural identity. In fact, the unprecedented international relations with the three major settled civilisations - Byzantine, Sassanian, and Chinese - unveiled to their élites the necessity of coining their own kingship image. Their life world and beliefs should be included in a new visual language comprehensible to the new neighbours yet not subordinate to those sophisticated cultures. At the same time, the quickly achieved power called for as magnificent pageantry as displayed by their counterparts, following the rule 'wealth is power'.
While this period of Turk history has not been seriously addressed concerning weavings for no exemplars survived so far, it may be of some interest. 


The Oghuz 



The history of the Oghuz, the forefathers of the Turkmen tribes, mingles into the large family of Eurasian nomads broadly categorized as proto-Turko-Mongol. Most plausibly, they belong to the same Turk groups roaming within the Juan Juan confederation.
Oghuz tribes established their own Khaganate in the first half of the VIth century in western China, today Sinkiang, profiting from the low and high ebbs of the local Juan Juan rulers finally defeated and subsumed by the emerging Gok Turk.
Internal tensions drove them to move to the Issyl Lake basin (Shanxi province) whence, afterwards, they drove west on the northern steppes ways. We find the Oghuz mentioned in the Orkhon steles, in Samanid and Arabic chronicles. These documents confirm them to have fled from eastern lands to Transoxiana and the northern steppes between the Aral and Caspian Sea, in the second half 8th ca. Nevertheless, there is scarce evidence the 'eastern' Oghuz tribes are the same as those later found in western lands, for the term Oghuz may have been used with its broad meaning - a large tribal confederation.


Al Tawarik, folio, 1238, Pilgrims' tents.

However, it should be reasonable to imagine the Oghuz participating in the first Gok Turk empire partaking of the same cultural/artistic blossoming, and sharing similar politics and policies. 
Religious, political, and commercial bonds were quickly established by the Oghuz tribes with the Abbasid Caliphate (758-1258), as 9th and 10th-century documents verify.
A capital was fixed in the lower part of the river Syr Darya, Jengi Ken, a fact that allowed them to be listed as 'kingly' people in 903. Qwarezm appears to have become their main emporium. The confederation was called Oghuz Yabgu State and their land 'Oghuz steppes'. These regions were crossed by the northern Silk Road, relived anew by the Turks at the end of the 6th century. Fruitful trades and profits were held by Sogdian and Qwarezmian merchants carrying their goods towards eastern and northern Europe involving also the Oghuz groups. Furthermore, the process of settling caused the creation of new communities mingled with other ethnicities and new perspectives on many fields.


Eurasia, 700 AD

Oghuz State



They appear engaged in the historical events of the day and turned Islamic in the early 11th century from mixed paganism. Although the many nomadic tribes were forcibly contrived by the Yabgu (the Khan) to remain within the confederation and comply with its policies, a dichotomy between the settled and the pastoral groups soon became a reason for constant upheavals. At the end of the 10th century, a branch split off, from which the Seljuk lineage emerged. This event was a turning point in the Oghuz fortune.
Meanwhile, the name 'Oghuz' was gradually replaced by Türkmen or Turkoman, a process completed by the beginning of the 13th century.
Mahmud Kashghari wrote in the 11th century an important Turkish language encyclopedia (Diva-nu Lughate-it-Turk, 1072 - 1074) whence much of what is known about these tribes is referred. Three hundred years later, Rashid al-Din offers a far more elaborate account including an Oghuz mythology (Jami-al-Tawarik). Abul Ghazi Bahadur Khan, ruler of Khiva (1643/44 until 1663) is the later rich source of information on the modern era events.








     SHAPING A ROYAL PAGEANTRY

      The Pearl Roundel


Alliances and wars led luxury and commodity goods lively circulate all throughout Eurasia. In this respect, the eager nature of Turk aristocrats to trade and boost their power must be mentioned.
The encampments of the Khagans became royal settlements where war booties, traded items, and royal gifts did not only stop at the royal properties. On the contrary, they were redistributed among kinsmen and affiliates as a sign of largess and bond.
The pastoral residences plausibly were veritable melting pots where various foreign artistic languages converged. Archaeological excavations in these regions have proved the presence of good typologies acknowledged as distinctive of diverse Eurasian civilisations, among them lots of silk fabric.

Yingpan Man, Tarim Basin found, textiles, 300-400AD (?)


In the quest for effective self-representation and royal propaganda, the Turks probably selected designs among the ones resonating with their traditions - a common process within Eurasian civilisations as Sogdian and Heftalite exemplars show. In the cultural milieu of Central Asia, they could find traits complying with their supernatural imagery and beliefs. 


The great novelty these hordes experienced in Central Asia was having fixed capital centres (Suya in the Ferghana Valley, and Kashgar in the Tarim Basin) mingling them with the settled culture. More fortresses and strategic settlements were built to protect and boost trade and political interests. Practising a settled life, the Turk élites adopted some local habits and features. Thus, it should not wonder if they became accustomed, for example, to use the period robe of honour as some frescoes in Afrasiab and Penjikent unveil. Mostly made of silk fabric depicted with roundels, it was much sought after by the aristocrats.

Most interestingly, by way of the northern Silk Road, this type was also used among populations bordering the Oghuz in the 9th and 10th centuries, such as the Alans, one of whose kingdoms were established North of the Caucasus. 

Alan culture, Sogdian silk, robe of honour, 9th-10th, Hermitage

Alan culture,  headdress designed like a helmet, covered with Sogdian Silk, 9th-10th

Sogdian artisans and merchants were greatly responsible for the diffusion and lively survival of this pattern beyond the vanishing Sasanian empire (224-651 AD). Importantly, they are referred to as having worked on Chinese commission quite early, as proved by representations in the Tarim Basin. But, most of all, they were excellent traders able to forge these designs on the desiderata of the diverse feudal aristocracies of the day, as the Sogdian-Turfanese type testifies. 
The roundel template depicting the pearl roundel and a secondary motif was received as a familiar standard in the visual habit of these areas.



Robes of honour, Kucha kingdom, Kizil caves, 432-538, Tarim Basin

Robe of honour, fragment, silk, Central Asia, 7th-8th


                                                            The Pearl Roundel

But, why the pearl roundel design, what is its appeal?
This pattern was adopted in Central Asia, specifically Sogdia, from Sasanian art, even though more ancient sources are to be considered. Likewise, it is found in the art of the nomadic populations of the steppes, like Scythian and Sarmatian artefacts testify. And, a similar device appears to be depicted in the Pazyryk carpet, part of a Scythian king's burial treasure, perhaps using Achaemenid-inspired designs. Despite it being difficult to ascertain the artistic relations between these cultures, the habit of adapting and adopting formulas and motifs shaped these moving empires's artistic output.
Finally, one can safely say that the pearl roundel design was a familiar image in Central Asia. 

Scythian disk, 200-1 BC, The Metropolitan Museum

Scythian carpet, Pazyryk found, 400 BC


From the Sasanian period onwards the pattern became the craze of the day in silk textiles with important vestiges into the 13th century.

Sasanian  royal emblem within a pearl roundel, 6th, Metropolitan Museum

Sasanian  silk fabric, 5th-6th

The roundel, usually framing important characters, mythological animals, and symbolic designs, is easily comparable with the halo, a circular glow depicted around the head of sacred and important characters, widespread in various Central Asia cultures. In turn, the pearl was a mark of wisdom, true self, wish-fulfilling jewel, and embodiment of the celestial symbolism of the moon. It seemingly completed as well as enhanced the roundel's meaning. Pearl roundel silks were found also covering funerary masks attesting to the undeniable symbolism which they were imbued with.
Whatever image was framed within, it always connected secular power, divine favour, and prosperity wishes - traits shared by different traditions. In particular, the Sogdian versions privileged the representation of a sort of Eurasian animal pantheon much in tune with a steppe repertoire.
Used also for paying taxes as well as rewards and imperial gifts, these fabrics may be rightly referred to as a classical outcome of  Central Asian culture as a whole. Obviously enough, they got to exert a great appeal on the steppe élites. 
Rationally, an array of reasons made the pearl roundel an obvious choice to be displayed in Turk weavings.  


Iran or Central Asia, 7th-8th, pearl halo crowning Khusrau II (?), The David Collection


Sogdia, silk, 8th, fronting winged horses

Central Asia, Afghanistan (?), 7th, boar's head and peacock, Metropolitan Museum



                                                           TURK IMAGERY
                                                   


It is necessary to verify whether Central Asian and Turk imagery could overlap reinforcing the hypothesis of their connection.
The scarce evidence regarding early Turk imagery, that is ante 565, can be deduced from petroglyphs, memorial steles, and coinage, the meaning of which scholars investigate thanks to descriptions found in the scripts themselves and contemporaneous Chinese chronicles.
Two designs should have been dominant in the kingship representation as royal marks (tamgha) of the two major ruling dynasties, the Ashina and Ashida. Their distinguishing marks were respectively the mountain goat/ibex and the snake/dragon. They were steadily used as symbols of power. Two more animals enjoyed a special status, the bird of prey and the horse. The former represents both a celestial being loaded with divine attributes connecting heavens and earth, and the falconry - an essential activity of the steppe nomads. Birds of prey were the second best companions of the nomads apt for herding and warfare, enjoying a celestial status in Eurasia as neatly displayed by added wings in silk depictions.
These images in Turk art may have had quite elegant and recognisable shapes, such as the 'falcon' carved on the stone tiara of Kul Tegin memorial statue (circa 730) or the horse stamped on a Turk coin (6th). Otherwise, in 'rural' environments, like in petroglyphs, designs were stylized and simplified.

Kul Tegin memorial, I half 8th, detail, Raptor

Gok Turk coin, 6th, Horse and Crescent.

Sogdia, fronting birds of prey, 8th-9th

Yet, other royal marks as found on coins and seals. These were, again, the emblems (coats of arms) of a clan, tribe, or family among the nomadic populations of Eurasia. They represent mostly animals, more or less stylised, with totemic and protective functions. It should here be reminded that medieval chronicles record how Oghuz tribes' tamgha were mostly birds of prey. They are often matched with stars and crescents to reinforce the idea of the divine favour and origin of the ruling dynasty.


Gok Turk coin, 6th-7th, verso with royal mark

Gok Turk coin, 7th-8th, verso with royal mark


Although it is definitely impossible to assume which motifs could have appeared in the royal Turk fabrics patterned with pearl roundel, horse, ibex, raptor, moon, and stars reasonably are on the list. On the other hand, the Tree of Life and related vegetal forms can be added for their universal meaning.



                     

                                        THE PEARL ROUNDEL - FROM SILK TO KNOTS

                                                              Reshaping Roundels 

                                                             The Secondary Motif
                                                           



The question as to whether or not Turk weavers wove 'pearl roundel patterned' rugs opens a second question - whether such format had been ever knotted in that period. After all, it appears also in other visual media (i.e. architectural decoration in frescoes and stucco work, seals, and coins) surmising a common use.

Unfortunately, no documentary and material evidence exist to prove it had ever been transferred into rugs by local settled populations, be they Sogdian or others. Nevertheless, two interesting facts do surface in the 7th-8th century Penjikent palace's murals, a significant place.
While representing prominent characters (most probably Sogdians) dressing in pearl roundel patterned cloths, they unveil the same design woven into saddles. Since the affinity between trappings and rugs is a matter of fact in later periods, it should be considered also in these earlier times. Furthermore, the scarce representation of textiles for use on the floor (rugs, if ever) displays the use of the roundel at the border. Thus, these two points should invite us to reflect on whether urban elitès have transferred this format into rugs. To this respect, it is important to add that some Sogdians occasionally dressed in Turkic clothes and used the Turk language and alphabet, facts further surmising a real symbiosis between the two populations. As a consequence, one can ask if the Turks had imitated local silk fabrics and rugs. Unmistakably, the resemblance of the actual Turkmen format and the pearl roundel pattern calls for a shared lineage, although a proper pearl roundel is not to be seen in any Turkmen carpet.


Penjikent murals, 6th-8th, camel saddle with roundel design

Penjikent, Sogdian murals, 6th-8th, rug-like fabric 


Reshaping Roundels

Indeed, the roundel pattern received many different shapes in silk fabrics and some of them may have been preferred, reworked and reused. Centuries later derived designs may be difficult to trace back, yet it is still possible to find evident relations between the actual Turkmen 'roundel' shapes (let us, for now, name this way the gul) and the silk ones. In the quest for blueprints we have chosen those Turkmen designs seemingly more congruent with them.
In a survey of the various Turkmen gul shapes, the chuval gul and the gulli-gul stand out, plus the octagonal type.

The octagon does not overpopulate roundel fabrics either as a primary or secondary motif. Nevertheless, one can consider it to be the simplest reduction of a roundel, especially if applied to the knotted technique. It is usually found in the Arabatchi tauk-nuska gul, Karadashli, Temirjin and occasionally others.
Interestingly enough, the octagon seems to be reserved for specific designs with a more evident 'tribal' or non-urban accent, for they are mostly associated with 'rural' designs like animals, kotchanak, and others.

Sogdian or Chinese culture, 8th, octagonal roundel

Central Asia, silk robe of honour, octagonal secondary motif, 11th

Octagonal gul, Arabatchi tauk-nuska gul , 18th


There is though a unique connection between the Turkmen octagon and the silk designs when looking at a few 'Sogdian' fabrics composed of an octagonal grid and a stepped rhombus in the intersections. Surprisingly, a Yomut-related main carpet appears mimicking a similar format of staggered rows of octagons and stepped rhombuses. One can't but notice the stricking parallel of vocabulary although differently used.

Central/East Asia silk fabric, 7th-8th century


Main carpet, Turkmenistan, ca. 1800


The Salor gulli-gul shape might be tentatively defined as the synthesis of various roundel types resulting in a polilobed form.
Quite interestingly, a polilobed medallion is exhibited in a stucco decoration from the late phase of the Afrasiab palace decoration (9th-11th) where a full mastery of its decorative nature appears. It does not make wonder if it became a formula in early Timurid art, and, consequently, in Central Asian decorative repertoire. A Chinese lineage may also be underlined because of the tons of Chinese silks circulating in Central Asia during the Yuan period. The Chagatai khanate and the Golden Horde were once more widely expanding the Chinese pattern where a similar polilobed medallion was a usual design.


Polilobed gul, Salor gulli-gul, Salor mc, 19th, M. Therani Gallery

Sasanian textile, 6th-7th, lobed/petalled roundel, Cleveland Museum

Sogdian textile, lobed/petalled roundel, 7th-8th

Sogdian textile, 7th-8th, ornated roundel profile.

Late Afrasiab phase, 9th-11th, Museum of Afrasiab

Yuan silk, LACMA


Samarkanda, Sha-i-Zindah, late 14th


The chuval gul shape may hark back to a somewhat later device. It, in fact, reminds more of a cartouche-like form traceable also in architectural decoration. It looks like the result of overlapped curved and angular shapes. In fabrics, although not a frequently represented design, it appears both as a primary and secondary motif. 
The geometric nature and the substrate of overlapped shapes evident in the outline will be of merit in defining also the internal decoration of the chuval gul, as we will see later.


Chuval gul, Yomud, 19th


Secondary motif, Sogdian textile, 8th-9th

Primary design, Byzantine textile 9th-10th, Abegg-Stiftung

Ummayad stucco, mid-8th, The Rockefeller Museum, Jerusalem.



The Secondary Motif


Regarding the secondary gul, Turkmen carpets sport a variety of the four-directions motif,  diminished and simplified versions of primary guls, and other designs. A similar variety is seen in the original pearl roundel fabrics, but surely the most distinctive type is the four-directions motif.
Often displaying a floral guise in the blueprints (Sasanian, Sogdian and Tang), it is well represented in Turkmen main carpets. Usually, it is translated into a geometrised design with floral vestiges.
Nonetheless, the richness of these motifs should merit a dedicated survey, which is not the case here.

Four directional motif, Sogdian baby jacket, 8th

Sogdian textile, 7th-8th

Secondary motif, Yomud frag

Secondary gul, Yomud

 Secondary gul, Saryk mc frag.



                                                               


THE YEAR 1000 AND A SHIFTING IMAGERY

                                                        
After the opening assumption was that nomadic populations had used the pearl roundel pattern and a bestiary decoration, it is necessary to delve into a realistic scene and analysis. In the meantime, the historical panorama was changing blowing away the customary animal beings.
The symbolical year 1000, much resonating with Western sensibility, represents a marking point of a shifting cultural prospect in Central Asia. This period saw, in fact, the birth of the first Turk-Islamic dynasties which were soon to become the leading drive of all Eurasia from eastern Turkestan to the western Mediterranean shores. Islam was a main character in this game and, despite all, a cohesive factor able to coalesce new policies and politics. Art was just in the middle of the process.

The Islamic conquest of Central Asia, beginning in the middle of the 8th century, essentially resulted in a cultural invasion against 'paganism'. Islam was going to be diffused with any means to repress and replace the religious diversity hitherto characterizing Central Asian populations. However, the process of Islamization proceeded very slowly. Often, forcibly converted individuals secretly remained adherent to their beliefs.
Imposing an altering self-identity system unmistakably involved a Sisyphus effort. Nonetheless, two distinguished features of  Central Asian mindset - flexibility, and receptivity - undoubtedly played a big role in the process of assimilating the new cultural parameters.

This least known period (8th, 9th, and 10th century) became paramount to developing new iconographies in all the 'rug belt'. But, unfortunately again, scarce material evidence prevents from submitting a satisfying reconstruction of the smooth changes that occurred in art, least of all the knotted medium.
A reasonable sketch should anyhow stress how many traits of diverse traditions were incorporated into the Islamic stream. As well, it should suggest a quicksilver aspect of visual arts wherein old and new cohabited for a while.

Ghaznavid, painted wooden box,  12th.

In this respect, essential was the engagement of the wandering Sufis for their ability to mingle older beliefs and Islamic conceits. They spread the new religion at Turk courts and nomadic groups as well. New decorative typologies were moulded to comply with both the Islamic proscription of figural images and the necessity of imbuing art with the new religious conceits. Roughly said, geometry, floral design, and calligraphy will constitute a new lexicon permeating Islamic art from then on.
Linked to ancient observations of celestial and earthly events, geometric design developed its own patterns and symbology since very ancient times. Over the Middle Ages, great scientific achievements (geometry, astronomy, and mathematics), as well as the developing art of calligraphy, became two more catalysts for a new visual language.


Starting from Transoxiana and Qwarezm to eastern regions (today Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, and Kyrgyzstan) and southern (today Afghanistan), a consistent style is easily evidenced through architecture. The Samanid style in Bukhara possibly inaugurated this new era finally entombing the figural imagery of royalty and divinity of pre-Islamic Sogdian murals.

Samanid culture (819-999), Mausoleum in Bukhara,

Bukhara, Varakhsah Palace, 7th-8th

After the fall of the Samanids, Qwarezmian art developed the style with significant use of ornated calligraphy wherein vegetal forms played an increasing role.

Qwarezm, Urgench, Mausoleum of  Qho-Rezmanshah II, 12th

Qwarezm, Urgench,  Mausoleum of Qho-Rezmanshah II, 12th


At the eastern pole of Central Asia, similar visual treatments were developed by the Turk Kharakhanid dynasty established in the late 10th century.
Stunning is the mingling of interlaced geometric patterns, highly refined calligraphy, and richly decorated medallions embellished with vegetal ornaments, declaring a ripe art. Interestingly, similarities join the artistic expressions in diverse Turk-Islamic kingdoms - in the West, the Near East, Egypt, and Spain.

Kharakhanid Uzgen, Mosque, 11th-12th

Kharakhanid Uzgen, mosque, wooden panel, 11th-12th

However, it is in the core of Central Asia, Afrasiab (old Samarkand), that we can glimpse the original nature of the new vocabulary.
Some stucco works have been studied and thought of as conveying complex religious and cosmological symbolism. Each form (eight-pointed star, hexagram, swastika, nine-petal flower) arranged in various combinations likely reportedly represents an enciphered version of heathen beliefs while adhering to a non-figural imagery prescribed by Islam.  In turn, the permeating presence of vegetal forms expresses the integrity of macro and micro-cosmo. The pearl roundel is still alive.
These emblematic images from ancient civilisations partecipated in the new lexicon as a testament to the long-lasting syncretism of Central Asia.



Afrasyab, 'Hidden Texts', 9th-10th

Afrasyab, panel, 10th


Indo-European image of an astronomical and cosmological indication, 3000BC, Harappa site




This unpredictable panorama reveals other aniconic designs accepted in the Islamic orbit. One such type is present in the Kharakhanid mosque of Aisha Bibi, today Kazakhstan, built 11th-12th century. Its external structure is bedecked with simple decorative units which are claimed to be a symbolic heritage of ancient Turkic culture. One of them appears to be the ubiquitous four-directions design sported in two classic outlays, the orthogonal and the 45-degree rotated version, with curled Chinese-inspired leaf finials, which in a later terminology are often called 'kotchanak', that is bull horns.

Aisha Bibi Mosque, Taraz, 11th-12th

Aisha Bibi Mosque, detail


Bactriana jewels, gold.



The Kharakhanid decoration looks like voicing a specific aesthetic plausibly originated in the eastern Turk Khaganate. There a reciprocated cultural exchange with China had since long occurred and the nomadic steppe tradition was already rooted and ripened.

In this regard, it is interesting to note how a small group of rugs found in Anatolia and classified as 'Seljuk' seem related to these small unit formats. They are so consistent with the Kharakhanid decoration of Aisha Bibi's to the extent to properly fit such a building as in a planned visual project. Probably the Kharakhanid artists fished in the same decorative pool as the Turkmen Oghuz.
But these carpets allegedly woven during the Seljuk dominion in Asia Minor, do not show any link with the 'roundel' types, although the Seljuks did appreciate them. 


Seljuk fragmented rug, 12th, TIEM
Aisha Bibi


Seljuk fragment, Konya Ethnographic Museum

Aisha Bibi mosque, main portal

Seljuk robe, 1020-1160, Iran or Central Asia, The Al Thani Collection


                                   


                                     THE YEAR 1000 AND A PIECEMEAL REALITY



Unlike other Turk groups able to establish geopolitical powerhouses in the 11th-13th century, the Oghuz accomplished a short acme of power in 1041-1042, when Malik was appointed by the Ghaznavids as Shah of Qwarezm in the capital Urgench. Prematurely defeated and banished, they soon after vanished. Many were dispersed in bordering areas and there subsumed. Others settled in the Caspian Mangyslak plateau, and others fled to the southwest areas of Central Asia. Slipped back to a pastoral semi-nomadic life the Oghuz-Türkmen were soon eclipsed and regionalized in the Mongol and Timurid polities.

This period saw the birth of the Oghuz Narrative wherein the need to communicate a convenient cultural heritage in a time of empire formation is clearly present. Far from the pure nomadic Tengrism, the new legend claims more inclusive old-age traditions spanning from a Biblical ancestry and a long-aged monotheism to links with Alexander the Great. Such multifarious mythology resonates with the 'open mindset' that had previously accepted Nestorianism, Buddhism, Zoroastrianism and Judaism. Rather accordingly, the extreme result was the conversion to Islam.

In Mangyslak a new Confederation was forged by the powerful Salor tribe, whence the genealogy of the Turkmen tribes, as we today know them, originated with the later contribution of added tribes from bordering areas. But despite their active role in the area, they never returned to the previous status of princely splendour. 

The Mangyslak peninsula in the brown circle



This sort of regression from a greater geopolitical arena plausibly shaped an even stronger self-pride that could only rely on tradition and the dream of a Golden Age. Preserving a traditional iconography was a way to feel still part of the Great History. But, we can't expect the Turkmen to be separated from the mainstream of their cultural basin, and we can't assume that the designs in their main carpets suddenly arose in the 15th-17th century. On the other hand, this last period may sign their last princely-like experience, for some of them succeeded in short periods in taking over the power of some Uzbek khans. Such historical events, fully elucidated by others, might explain the noble aura of some of the earliest survived main carpets and related weavings.

The breakdown of the Oghuz Confederation caused several consequences. A tribal unity was replaced by a piecemeal reality probably reflected in weavings. Such a situation could have boosted the birth of idiomatic designs, but whether they expressed the identity of individual groups is, again, speculative. A certain variety, in fact,  should have been part of traditional iconography.
Obviously, the conversion to Islam and the slow shift to a new visual language drive us to presume a change of imagery in their carpets. Adapting to new habits - a survival technique ever since - likely drove them to add to the roundel/gul the new aforementioned elements: geometrical patterns, floral designs, and calligraphy.




                                                   RESHAPING DESIGNS 


So, can we recognise the three new decorative elements in place of the previous animalistic imagery? And, from where have they been sourced?
It is safe enough to imagine the Turkmen not to abruptly abandon the heathen images. The new aesthetic requirements were plausibly fulfilled by settled Turkmen and those more closely related to the commercial emporiums and consequently adopted by the peripheral groups.





                                                    The Chuval Gul and Geometry


The following analysis of the chuval gul design focuses on delineating an imaginary template for a manifold of descendants and variations. 

There is a spell on how the design is masterfully conceived - almost a geometry theorem - compelling comparisons with geometrical patterns seen in architectural decoration. Surmising the latter to be a source for 'tribal' patterns may be paradoxical, but rational rather when one reflects on the historical and political situations powerful Turkmen clans lived. A stigma of Islamic art, interlaced geometric patterns were easily available as design repertoire.

Several versions capture the eye with forms inscribed in one another -some of them as the octagon and the eight-pointed star are essential motifs in geometrical symbolism. The governing reason for this gul seems to be the idea of an interlaced device emerging from a geometrical net to become a self-sufficient pattern in space. Supporting this interpretation, dynamic chromaticism suggests a three-dimensional aspect. And, in fact, these architectural patterns have been poignantly interpreted as reductions of three-dimensional designs to a surface (G. Neciplogu). The chuval gul looks like a prismatic roundel, the latter filled with interlaced shapes.
Nonetheless, it does not avoid hinting at the original lifeworld - it appears governed by the four-directions symbol whose orthogonal lines are often crested with bird heads, an ancient steppe theme. 
 

Paradigmatic chuval gul, (Yomud torba, De Young Museum),  tcoletribalrugs.com photo courtesy

Yomud m.c.,  15th-17th, Sovrani Tappeti, plate 108
           


Such typology of decoration - geometrical net punctuated by recurring motifs - continued to be an essential part of Timurid architecture from its inception.


Samarkand, Bibi Khanum minaret, late 14th


The only textiles depicting such interlacings, otherwise typical of tile, stucco and woodwork, are Spanish silks of the Nasrid period (Muslim Spain, 1232-1492) roughly dating to the same period as the supposed blueprints of our gul. 
They also show the possible process of introducing the primary-secondary gul interplay into purely geometrical patterns. In this respect, the spreading of Turk-stock groups turned Islamic towards the Near East and the Mediterranean shores may have been partly responsible for the style and requirements diffused beyond the Central Asian borders.
Later Timurid miniatures show an array of parallel patterns likewise.


Nasrid silk fragment, Fundaciòn Làzaro Galdiano Madrid













Nasrid silk fragment


















Not for nothing, the same structure of superimposed geometric forms can be detected in other significant Turk-derived weaving traditions. In early Ottoman Anatolia, they gave birth to some of the most famous groups of carpets - the so-called Holbein and Ushak variants which Robert Pinner properly illustrated as 'substrate designs'. 
Therefore, we might consider including this type of device, the chuval gul, in a wide visual language distinguishing the Turk-Islamic weaving art spanning from Central Asia to Mamluk Egypt throughout Anatolia. 
In our vision, integrating Turkmen carpets into an international scene will further elaborate their uniqueness and merits.

 Diagram of interlaced geometrical shapes, exemplar.
.

Anatolia, medallion rug, Vakiflar Museum, 15th-16th

Mamluk Egypt, central medallion detail, 15th-16th, Berlin Museum


                                   

                                                    The Gulli Gul and the Floral Design


This type of gul possibly adds another tessera to understand the weavers' creative process.
In this case, the template is very steady.


Salor main carpet fragment, Gulli gul


We have seen how Islam caused the blooming of an endemic geometric style combined with floral elements. Over time, a vegetal décor replaced the interlacing geometries, yet maintaining the same self-generating structure - interlacing vines embellished with buds, lotuses, palmettes and leaves. In this regard, the Chinese floral designs circulating in Eurasia since the Han period (200BC-220AD) should be reminded of as one essential influence via silk and pottery. From then on, several waves of Chinese art invaded Central Asia, i.e. during the Liao, Yuan and Timurid periods.


Eastern Central Asia, silk embroidery, 12th-14th, The Metropolitan




Central Asia (Nishapur?), 11th


In a short time, a new artistic bloom occurred during the reign of Timur thanks to his 'Princely Vision'. Many of the decorative formulas elaborated by his courtly laboratories expanded the creative possibilities of Islamic art and became exemplary sources of inspiration.
If ever a simplistic definition could account for a typical Timurid decoration, one might rightly say the complex Islamic geometries have been transformed into an ordered apparatus of vegetal elements in various fluent arrangements.



Central Asia, Timurid art, fragmented decoration, late 14th


Samarkand, carved wooden door, 1405


Samarkand, Ulugh Beg madrassa, early 15th


The combination of geometry and floral motifs had apparently inspired Turkmen weavers to update their designs. It was not difficult to add floral details - trefoil or stylised bud.
Usually, in this typology, a polilobed frame contains an eight-pointed device, at times flattened to resemble a cartouche. Within the latter other inscribed geometric shapes or small animals lie. The four-directions motif typically remains, while stylised flowers grace the diagonal lines.
Like in the chuval gul, chromaticism is conserved, although it appears more a question of a given taste than a structural necessity of the design.


Salor gulli gul, early 19th, Tehrani Gallery photo-courtesy

Tekke gul, tcoletribalrugs.com photo courtesy


It is questionable yet fascinating to surmise that the appearance of other 'realistic' floral depictions in Turkmen weavings might have a similar origin. To this regard, it must be added that vegetal representations in the form of a plant or shrub, or even just a flower adjoined to a geometrical device, were a traditional feature of pearl roundel designs whether inside or outside the roundel. They most likely referred to the most ancient Eurasian Tree of Life motif. In the case of the actual carpets, they look isolated from the field and reserved to the elem as if in full emphasis.
Surely, kinds of floral bunches and shrubs were diffusely represented in period miniated books, which must be supposed to have been among the treasured holdings of the Turkmen élites. The alleged early date of some Yomut main carpets sporting shrub inscribed elems is in harmony with period miniatures. Although more close and akin models may be easily found (i.e. those in Safavid and Mughal weavings), we purposely present an unspecific parallel to preserve the uniqueness of the Turkmen aesthetic and creativity. It should be considered a constraining point of view to look for specific models to any design and detail - excess of classification can diminish artistic value. Furthermore, a developing style must always be taken into account.

The various nature of Turkmen designs, seem to confirm their polysemous nature open to receive and convey - a habit that apparently seeded an array of forms at times hardly decipherable.


Floral devices, Iran or Central Asia silk, 7th-8th c. the David Collection

Herat Miniature, 1431, The Hermitage




Yomut main carpet, elem shrubs, 17th-18th, Moshe Tabibnia Collection photo credit


Yomut asmalyk, det., The Louvre


However, the 'floral' context might explain the peculiar finials of the four-directions motif in the gulli gul. Although it appears in many cases with kotchanak finials, when the organiser of the device, it often times recalls a lotus shape rendered like a close bud with flanking reclining leaves. It may be related also to the cloud collar design, one more meaningful device in Central Asia. The same camouflage to the finials can appear in the chuval gul - buds in place of birds.


Aisha Bibi, Kharakhanid Mausoleum
Mongol period,  cloud collar motif


Lotus/bud shape, 13th


Scattered lotus, Timurid tilework, 14th



Again, parallels are easy to be found in the Near Eastern basin. After all, Timurid artefacts of all types and paper scrolls as exemplars, travelled throughout and beyond the empire's borders. Nonetheless, given the great proximity of the Turkmen to their cradle, a prompt appropriation of such models should be suspected to give their weavers a sort of primacy.
It should not anymore appal the evident similarity of an early Ottoman motif with a classic of the Turkmen output, the Tekke main gul. The influence of the Timurid decorative language in early Ottoman art has been scholarly underlined (G. Necipoglu). And again, a stunning affinity with a type of Mamluk designs appears.

Tekke MC, 19th, tcoletribalrugs photo courtesy


Ottoman Ushak carpet, 15th-16th, Berlin Museum


Mamluk carpet, The Simonetti, The Metropolitan Museum, circa 1500


A Special Gulli Gul


The Saryk, a distinctive gulli gul type may introduce one more proof of the Timurid influence. The black diamond within the gul sports the typical craze for knots seen in many 'miniated' Timurid rugs. Similar usage is found in another  Turkmen typology, the Salor chuval.
The so-called Turret gul shows, in fact, a secondary gul graced with the same knots. It would be comfortable to claim an Anatolian influence for the similarity with one of the Holbein small medallions, but the first-hand Timurid models should be seriously considered. The Saryk black diamond form appears consistent with the same organising principle - building devices with knots.


Saryk main carpet frag, gulli gul, tcoletribalrug.com courtesy

Salor chuval, secondary gul with knots, NERS

Herat miniature, 1495



Timurid tile, cartouche form, early14th

Regarding the Saryk black diamond, two further comparisons with early Anatolian designs are compelling - one with the 'Ghirlandaio' medallion with knots, the other with the cruciform gul in the Small Holbein Pattern - where knots and buds blend into each other. 


Anatolian fragment, Alexander collection





Interestingly enough, the Turret gul chuval presents an identical secondary gul as that in the Small Medallion Holbein type.

                                                                Calligraphy


Artistic inscriptions first and calligraphy later became an essential part of the Turk Islamic visual art in its various declinations, not least textiles. A significant element in the architectural decorative system, it was diffusely applied to textiles spread on the floor as plenty of miniatures show since early times. It is also represented in late pearl roundel silks (12th and 13th century).
It should be safe to hypothesise it to be conveniently displayed in early Turkmen rugs as the contemporaneous Seljuk did.
As an array of Anatolian rugs confirm, it underwent a manifold of reworking where a precise script and meaning were not any more important but the charisma it added to the artefact. That is the reason for it to be called kufesque design meaning a design derived from the kufic script. That said, there are few proper words maintained visible like the case of the 'lam alif', or 'al mulk', referring to the Almighty. This very sign extraordinarily appears in some early Turkmen rugs verifying, if ever, the blend of calligraphy in the border designs.


Syria, 14th, 'lam alif' design

Anatolia, Small Medallion Holbein frag, 15th-16th, 'lam alif' kufesque border


The Hoffmeister Collection, Yomut torba, 15th-17th (?), 'lam alif' turned 45-degree in the border design.



Other examples are well discerned in the dedicated literature.
One more example may be of use here. The structure of the following border, typical for Salor main carpets, can't but remind a reworked version of the lam alif: the knotted design has been isolated from the vertical elements, while the latter form the white grid (see Speculations on the "Kufic" Border in Orient Rugs in the Pacific Collection, p.121). More cogent is the presence of a similar design in Sogdian art (see the robe's border in the fresco) and in Anatolian classic carpets (see the Small Medallion Holbein's border and its halved pattern use).
Arguably, the usage of kufesque designs on the borders of their rugs should overtly persuade of the open mindset these 'tribal' populations were imbued with.

Salor main carpet, frag, 19th

Sogdian fresco, The Hermitage

SMH, border detail,early 16th, Brukenthal Museum Sibiu





  Other guls

Some cases drive us back to earlier times when animals were in fashion.

Octagonal gul, 'Mistery Play', Eagle group kapunuk, Ashgabat National Museum, tcoletribalrugs photocourtesy



The Temirjin gul might again hold an enciphered trace of a Sogdian decorative element. The typical design repeated in the four sections of the gul seems to be a vestige of the usual ribbon gracing the celestial animals depicted in the pearl roundels. Although originally rendered in a fluent design, the flapping ribbon seen in Sogdian silks usually morphed in contracted folds.  In this context, the Temirjin motif may be a further contraction and reworking when the original meaning was lost, although different interpretations are possible.

Temirjin gul, tcoletribalrugs.com photo courtesy

Sassanian silk, 7th

Central Asian silk, 8th



It is not here the case to discuss other guls wherein the usual compound seems to be destroyed and recomposed into new unpredictable shapes. Yet, the carpet's format remained unaltered. Crescent, star, four-directions and kotchanak motifs, geometric forms and other designs usually grace them. Nevertheless, the visual result, once more, reflects the formidable ability to mould new designs by disruption and recreation.
These types not only testify to a receptive mindset able to adapt new designs to a traditional layout but also to the human need to create new forms within and despite the frame of tradition. 
To this respect, one should mind that in Central Asia essential visual novelties did not happen after the Timurid time. The Shaybanid and Uzbek heirs of Timur mostly updated art with the Persian accent notwithstanding the long-lasting rivalry with the Safavid empire. Via the Caucasus, the Caspian maritime trade and the northeastern regions of Persia the Turkmen could widen their trade interests with expected consequences. A special mention is due to an alleged Safavid laboratory established by Shah Abbas in Astarabad, today Gorgan, where groups of Yomut were living. Reportedly, it was producing carpets and other fabrics following its own manner but with an undoubted Persianate accent.
The Ballard multi-gul Yomut carpet is possibly one good example of  these blendings creating new compounds as other exemplars do show (to have a larger idea of this subject please refer to 'The Hecksher & Co' by the author in this blog)



Abdal gul

Kepse gul

C-gul

Eagle-gul


The Ballard Yomut multigul carpet, 18th-19th, The Metropolitan

                                                

EPILOGUE



The composition of the steppe empires usually generated a large variety of situations and ever-shifting structures. Ongoing alliances with new clients-patrons, new communities created with different ethnic groups, swinging polities, eager need for control on the trade roads and emporiums were essential players in the game.
Although initially roaming groups, the steppe élites largely proved over Great History a genetic aptitude to settle and dominate the territory like the Scythians to the West and the Juan Juan to the East did. They used to have permanent settlements of various sizes from the most peripheral to the closest to the power centre. Not rarely intermarried with the settled aristocracies, nomadic overlords are referred to as real kings outfitted with a magnificent display of kingship which was diffused among kinsmen and affiliates whose echoes arrived down to the lower strata of the population.
Much more complex than commonly acknowledged, the Turk social organisation at the higher levels usually improved non-tribal bonds and introduced unexpected freedom to the strict rules of tribal life to the point of changing their social rites (i.e. marriage and burial customs).  The many foreigners present in the Khaganal residences (i.e. Sogdians and Chinese) played an important role in this respect. The institutional and ideological legacy of the Turk organisation in Central Asia, although shortly lasted, bequeathed long-lasting traditions.
Turk imagery and art were congruously reshaped during this Golden Age - 1000 to 1500 - and in all likelihood originated both in royal encampments and urban settings with an arguable degree of variety. A tradition might have been shaped to be revered and carried on over a long period up to the actual carpets.

Mostly sedentary weavers knotting for domestic, ritual and trade needs, the Turkmen appear to have been aware of the art elaborated in Central Asia since their arrival.
Documentary evidence confirms them to have been engaged and merged with different traditions to various extents. Multiple reasons were causing such necessary symbiosis.
Reasonably, the essential equilibrium for these populations to survive had to grant tradition, a self-identity factor, and partly consent to innovation. The need for trading was one most effective points of a steady reworking process to satisfy commissions from diverse communities. Furthermore, the desire to emulate wealthier groups as well as the human call for creativity, an imperative never to be dismissed, also caused a quicksilver balance between conservatism and innovation.

Turkmen main carpets do suggest this scenario. Tradition seems to have been revered using an enduring loyalty to the inherited format while innovation interacted by conveniently accommodating new designs. Conversely, the tribal lineage was granted by the steady presence of specific signs. Not otherwise than tamghas marked cattle and flocks, the four-directions and kotchanak motif, crescent, star, two-headed animal, and bird-head 'marked' these rugs. This unique blend prevented them from losing their identity in the overwhelming flow of history.

Finally, surveying the varied interpretations attributed to their designs (see the devoted literature) one can't but be mesmerised. Beyond any source and intent, they communicate the idea of a polysemous nature suggestive of the creative effort and artistic value encrusted within. They do resonate with the innate talent of these weavers for creating 'open' images apt to reflect a shifting and rich cultural environment. Hence, adding feasible interpretations to the acknowledged wisdom should not but enrich the perception of these extraordinary works of art.

The refined expertise exuded by some of them voices the status of these pieces.
The historical context they sourced from, if only shortly summed,  may concede them to be addressed as descendants of a sophisticated outcome commissioned by nomadic as well as sedentary aristocracies. The dominant and implacable use of purple in its numerous shades, besides the constraints and characteristics of regional dye's resources, eventually applies to them the seal of royalty, for redness has been the symbol of magic, sacred and kingship ever since.

At the end of the journey, the pearl roundel disguised in Turkmen designs truly appears imbued with a 'divine favour' (the farnah) for it encapsulated and preserved an encrypted world still to fully decode.



Tekke main carpet



Post scriptum
Other consequences may be deduced from this perspective but they are far too lengthy for this type of short 'loom'.

                                                                       
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